"I was beginning to understand Henriette’s story more, just how gutsy she had been to adventure in such an inhospitable landscape, at a time when satellite phones and helicopters weren’t there for rescue, and women were told they didn’t belong in the wild."
If you've been following along for a while, you'll know all about Passenger ambassador Lise Wortley and her journey to climb Mont Blanc in a bonnet, following tracks left by Henriette d'Angeville almost two centuries ago as part of her project Woman With Altitude.
After her first attempt was called off due to storms last year, Lise headed back to Chamonix with her bonnet and hobnail boots in tow, with just a heatwave to battle this time round...
Women have used the outdoors as a source of escapism for centuries. Women like early 20 th century climber Dorothy Pilley, or author and poet Dorothy Wordsworth who explored the UK’s Lake District in the late 1700s, throughout history women have turned to nature as a source of healing and escapism, much like many of us do today.
Through Woman with Altitude, my outdoors community project that shares the inspirational stories of overlooked adventurous women from history, I often discover parallels between my own intentions for heading out into nature, and those of the women I research. It seems the wild has always been there to help us when we most need it, especially when we are stressed, anxious, overwhelmed, or just in need of a break from everyday life.
A few weeks ago, I returned from a project 2 years in the making. My aim was to follow in the footsteps of Henriette d’Angeville, the first woman to climb Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain, unaided in 1838. My first attempt at the climb was called off last year due to stormy weather, and although it was never my intention to return for a second time, I was offered the chance to try again.
"I wanted to know how she might have felt on her journey, how difficult it had been for her to climb in such an outfit, and if there is anything we can still learn from her today."
I was drawn to Henriette’s story for many reasons. She used the outdoors as a source of power, to push boundaries and break down barriers, claiming space for women while simultaneously discovering the benefits that nature can provide, not just mentally and physically, but socially too. And there was something else about Henriette’s story that truly captured my imagination - her clothing.
Clothing has come a long way in 187 years. Back in 1838, outdoor clothing for women didn’t exist, so daring women like Henriette who ventured into the mountains had to be inventive. Today we have it all, warm down jackets, snug Polartec fleeces, beanies, and most significantly, us women are allowed to wear trousers! What was once an act of defiance, with women facing persecution or public ridicule for wearing knickerbockers in the early 1800s, is now something we take for granted.
"It seems the wild has always been there to help us when we most need it, especially when we are stressed, anxious, overwhelmed, or just in need of a break from everyday life."
Henriette’s outfit for her Mont Blanc climb was striking. It consisted of a self-designed large woollen dress with matching trousers, a bonnet, hobnail boots and a feather boa. In total it weighed around 12kg and was a completely unique piece created especially for her climb. I wanted to know how she might have felt on her journey, how difficult it had been for her to climb in such an outfit, and if there is anything we can still learn from her today.
"There was a heat wave sweeping across the Alps, and as I pulled on my woollen layers, I knew I was in for a tough time."
Before I knew it, I was back in Chamonix with my all female climbing team and film crew. This time, we had arrived earlier in the season to attempt Henriette’s original route to the summit, a longer more challenging path that not many choose today. Our journey would begin from the church in the centre of Chamonix town, climbing 3,774m to the summit, all on foot. What’s more, there was a heat wave sweeping across the Alps, and as I pulled on my woollen layers, I knew I was in for a tough time.
With stormy weather forecast in a few days’ time, we set off earlier than planned, curious faces watching as we walked through the quaint streets towards the first murmurs of the mountain. After a few hours walking through lush pine forests, we broke through the tree line, leaving the cool shade behind. In the direct sun my outfit was sweltering, I had never been so hot as we climbed another three hours to our wild bivvy spot. I was beginning to understand just how difficult the climb would be in the airless itchy wool. I looked longingly at the rest of the team kitted out in their lightweight, breathable layers.
At sunrise, we headed to our next stop, the Grand Mulets hut, 1800m below the Mont Blanc summit. First, we had to cross the Boissons Glacier, navigating crevasses and snow bridges, before climbing up snow fields to the hut, which was perched alone on a precarious rocky outcrop. Compared to the mountain huts on the modern summit route, which sleep up to 100 people a night, the Grand Mulets is wonderfully quiet, with just two other climbers joining us that night.
"With my boots heavy with water, my body exhausted from the heat and altitude, I dragged myself, and my outfit, to the summit."
It was 2AM, and I wasn’t happy about sliding my woollen socked feet into wet hobnail boots. It was time to summit, and as we climbed down from the hut, the moon lit up the wild landscape around us. We had 1000m of seracs, steep climbs and fields of snow to navigate, before joining the modern route for the last 800m.
One foot in front of the other, slowly we ascended. I was beginning to understand Henriette’s story more, just how gutsy she had been to adventure in such an inhospitable landscape, at a time when satellite phones and helicopters weren’t there for rescue, and women were told they didn’t belong in the wild.
"I finally allowed myself a moment of calm, breathing in the cool fresh air, enjoying nature how I like to the most, in a slower way."
Seven hours into our climb we linked up with the modern route, carefully navigating our way past groups of climbers along the undulating ridge to the summit. The wind was stronger up here, my heavy dress blew like a flag and my tired legs wobbled as I tried to balance myself, holding onto my bonnet. This was the final push, and with my boots heavy with water, my body exhausted from the heat and altitude, I dragged myself, and my outfit, to the summit. This had been the hardest climb of my life.
Looking out from the summit, I could see the white peaks of the Alps for miles in each direction. I finally allowed myself a moment of calm, breathing in the cool fresh air, enjoying nature how I like to the most, in a slower way. I thought of Henriette, and how women like her are still so unknown by many. We can still learn so much from them, and I believe their stories can help us to shape the outdoors into a more inclusive space today.
Lise's film 'The Bride of Mont Blanc' will be released later this autumn.
